Sunday, September 05, 2004

Woke up at Dindigul with my back really sore. Friday had been tiring and sitting 11hrs. thru a bus-ride was no way to re-energize yourself. I think we reached Cumbum at around 0930hrs. Boarded another bus to Kumily and pondered over WHEN we'd reach Mallu territory. The ride uphill lasted a good 30mins. thru well forrested terrain. Our questions were answered when we stepped over the border - a ramshackle checkpost at Kumily - into Kerala. It was zimbly great.

Because nobody bothered to tell us, and because we thought our destination was actually Thekkady, we took one more bus ride..to get dropped right inside the Periyar Tiger Reserve. I didn't see any hotels around. We were inside the reserve dammit.

Periyar Tiger Reserve logo

Thanks to a local guide, and another auto ride back into Kumily, we found ourselves inspecting Green View Lodge with Cable TV. The owner of the place kept stressing on how this one room with toilet-attached was better than most others, thanks to a 14" cable TV. I hadn't come this far to be locked up inside a room and watch cable TV. Oh yeah, it was also strategically located, because it overlooked the Taj Garden Retreat. So, basically you get the same luxury of location as the Taj, at 1/10th the price. Drained from all those rides, we just settled for the place.

I think we had cold-showered and cleaned up by around 2PM, and so we stepped out for lunch. Since none of the hotels in Kumily accept plastic, one needs cash in hand. Luckily Kumily has a State Bank of Travancore ATM. Correction, Kumily has ONLY ONE ATM, and its from SBT. Cash in hand, we headed to the nearest KTDC tourist reception office, that's the one overlooking the bus-stand. It wore a sleepy look. The one lady manning everything had no clue what we were asking about, while we had no clue what she replied. Man, if the Indian tourists find it so hard here, how do the non-natives manage. Anyhow, she gave us two pamphlets which advertised everything the Reserve had to offer.

We were not looking for vegetarian food and it took us quite a while to reach the first hotel that advertised food. Hotel Revathy was bad lunch. Isaac ordered roasted beef and got something in gravy. I was already pissed because I was in Kerala and they didn't serve Appam here.

We walked 4.5kms to the boat-landing. It all made sense now. Kumily is this little town in Idukki district of Kerala. Thekkady just happens to be one of the spots inside the Periyar Tiger Reserve. But its green and cool allright. And that soothens your nerves.

The boat-ride commences at 4PM. But first you need to figure out which boat you are to board. They were named Jala Yathra, Jala Rathna, Jala Taranghini and Jala Mohini. But they were labelled Y-1, R-2, T-3, M-4 respectively. Why ? I don't know. Somebody got real creative and thought confusing everybody would be very amusing. We were on the lower deck and happy cause it started to rain. Got quite cold. In the hour and a half the ride lasted, we spotted a few birds, some buffaloes, pigs and one kid washing his clothes on the banks. Was actually delighted when I finally spotted an otter. Tha'wwaz great. I now knew why we had the Cable TV - we were all gonna go back and watch National Geographic's India specials. The ride got really tiresome and were only too happy to be back on land.

Took an auto-ride back into Kumily town, because the last bus out of Thekkady leaves at 1730hrs. And the Gates close at 1800 hrs. I don't know what happens if you get locked in.

Went to another Tourist Info booth. The chappy greeted us well and actually proposed some interesting activities. There was only one in our budget - the Nature walk. We'd have to be at the boat-landing next morning at 7AM; we were told.

Moved on. Began searching for a bar. Somehow, Cat turned ecstatic as he spotted atleast half a dozen Hotels where, on getting closer, the print read 'Bath attached'. That was bad humour. And we wanted a watering hole badly. After some scouting, we were back at the bus-stand. The only bar in town (apart from the Taj!), was at Hotel Kumily Gate. When we entered, we felt we were inside a TASMAC bar. Red lighting and the regular melee at the counter. Probably the only people not in Mundus, we were directed to the VIP Bar. This was a calmer place and we finally relaxed.

I think we got back to Green View around 2230hrs. Isaac could smell the dope in the air near our place. It lingered over around Hotel Armani - It was easier than calling it by its real name - Ambadi. Important landmark when the Thekkady folk enquired about our place of stay..

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